On Tuesday, March 8th, we celebrated the 100th Annual International Women’s Day with the Suubi ladies. Our dear friend Rachel was also departing the following day, so she organized her own leaving party with a culinary extravaganza of seasoned rice, whole fried potatoes, sautéed greens and cabbage, and stewed beef. The cooking commenced early in the morning when the most helpful Suubi ladies came to cut and fry vegetables and start stewing meat in giant saucepans balanced on three rocks over wood fires. We arrived with the rest of the ladies in their finest party dresses at around 2pm. The cooking continued; water boiled for rice and meat bubbled with seasonings. We sat in the shade on the front porch chatting, distributing paper, and discussing new necklace designs.

By 5pm we were all very hungry so we started to gather the ladies inside. I began the customary welcome: a long, rambling speech extolling the virtues and contributions of Rachel, the guest of honor, and thanking the ladies who helped shop and cook for the party. I introduced Rachel as the next speaker. She thanked the ladies for their hospitality and spoke of the great love and affection that had grown in her heart over the past nine months. When she said, “I respect and admire you all.” I saw the glint of a tear appear in the corner of her eye, but it’s dry season, so maybe it was a reaction to the dust. Rachel ended her speech and introduced our guests, Caroline and Eric, who said a short word of thanks. I asked if the ladies would like to begin eating. To my dismay, they said, “No, we will shake-shake (dance) first.” Then we watched gospel videos on the television attached to the wall while no one danced. Without warning everyone stood up and formed a line; it was time to eat. We all received a plate heaped with rice, potatoes, vegetables, and meat with gravy. I sat on the platform at the front of the room watching everyone shake-shake while standing on line waiting for food. The women sat and ate and continued to watch TV.

I realized that this was their idea of a perfect party. The women we work with don’t often get to sit and eat and watch television. In Uganda, parties are a massive undertaking. The women are responsible for organizing the entire event, attending to their guests’ needs well as cleaning up after. The host is expected to invite as many people as possible and welcome any uninvited neighbors. These events are usually very formal with strict schedules and protocol.

As I surveyed the room, I made eye contact with a few of our Suubi women in their fancy dresses. I watched them as they sat on plastic chairs. After eating, they stood and danced along with the music. They looked happy and relaxed. Rachel sat in the far corner laughing and chatting with the ladies who cooked the meal. Later, she took photos with nearly everyone, even the babies who are afraid of white people. As the sun sat down behind the trees, we said our farewells, hopped on bodas, and went home.